Setting Off

Start your engine, allowing it to warm up before you set off. Untie any mooring ropes from the jetty or wharf, leaving them ied to the boat, coiled and ready for future use. Make sure all ropes are inside the boat and not trailing in the water where they can be caught in the propeller.

Check that the area is clear of traffic before moving away, taking note of any speed limits or ‘no wash’ signs that may be in the area. Be careful not to create excessive wash when passing anglers (people fishing), passive craft or moored boats to avoid rocking them about.
Keep to the right side of the channel (see the section on Navigation Markers for more information).

Slowing Down and Stopping

Boats don’t have brakes, so give yourself plenty of time to stop. In a powerboat ease off the throttle and move into neutral, using short bursts in reverse gear to slow down and come to a final halt. Remember, some craft are more difficult to handle a vessel when in reverse. You may need an occasional forward boost to gain better control.

Steering

When steering a boat with a wheel, get to know the feel of the wheel and the rudder position before you set off.

Using a tiller is simple, though different to a wheel, providing you remember that pushing to the right will make the boat head left and vice versa. Be patient and plan ahead – the boat will take a few seconds to respond.

Tying Up

To keep your boat secure you need to tie up with rope for both the bow and stern. Many mooring sites have bollards or rings to tie up to – choose ones a short distance beyond the bow or/ stern of your boat. Run your ropes about 45o from your boat, loop them back onto the boat and tie securely, but not too tightly. Be aware of the rise and fall of the tide.

Make sure you know how to use your ropes properly. Keep them coiled, free of knots and ready for use.

Mooring

Slow down almost to a stop and carry out all your manoeuvres as slowly as possible. Move your boat very slowly, pointing the bow towards the mooring buoy, then use reverse to stop the boat just before the front hits the buoy. Put the engine into neutral.

Anchoring

When anchoring, lower the anchor to the bottom and let the vessel go astern until sufficient line is let out – this normally means three times as much line as the depth of water. If the weather deteriorates, increase the ratio to 5:1 or more.

You should have a length of chain between the anchor and the anchor line to cushion the vessel’s motion and help the flukes to dig in. The chain also stops the anchor line chaffing on the bottom. The bigger the vessel, the more chain you require.
In choosing your anchoring position, you should take into account local tides, possible wind changes and swing room required to keep your vessel away from any other vessels or hazards nearby. These factors are particularly important at crowded anchorages, or if you plan to stay overnight or leave your vessel unattended for even a brief period. If the water is fairly shallow, you may have to periodically adjust the amount of line you have out to allow for changes in depth caused by tides.
Avoid anchoring in sensitive habitats such as seagrass. Areas of seagrass are usually visible as dark patches on the sea bed. Damage from an individual anchor can potentially set off progressive seagrass loss over a wide area.
Historic shipwrecks are also easily damaged by anchors and anchoring in their vicinity should not be attempted during strong currents.
If you break down, you should attempt to remain in the one location by anchoring, or if conditions make this difficult, setting a sea anchor or drogue.

Boating on Inland Waters

Boating on inland waterways including rivers, creeks and dams demands special care. Many of these areas present issues not encountered in coastal waters including submerged trees, shallow sand bars and other snags which may be encountered.

Inland waterways are often murky and constantly changing so it is important to keep a lookout for objects that can impede your navigation. If you have one, use a depth finder to tell you the depth of the water. If you don’t have a depth finder, play it safe and reduce speed.

Familiarise yourself with the area and use maps and charts wherever you can – they will give you a good idea of areas to stay away from. Talk to local operators as they can often provide you with information that you won’t find on a chart, such as how the current runs after rain and water depth following drought.

It is also important to keep a good lookout for objects ahead or above you such as overhead powerlines, low level bridges and anything else that may impede your progress and compromise your safety.

Strong currents in major rivers and creeks can flow at fast rates and affect the manoeuvrability of vessels. Never underestimate the power of even a moderate current, which can exert a strong force that may trap vessels such as canoes against rocks. Extra caution is especially required following heavy rain or flooding.

Be careful in dams subject to water releases. These releases mean the areas near spillways can be extremely dangerous due to turbulence as the water flows through spillway gates. Boats can easily become caught in the turbulence and trapped against the gates or even forced through them. Stay well clear of such areas.

Also remember that during release periods, the foreshore can become soft, trapping vehicles during attempts to launch and retrieve boats.

The surface of the water in shallow dams and storage areas can become rough in windy conditions. If you are out when weather conditions change, store any unnecessary gear (removing any conductors of electricity if lightning is present) and make sure that everyone is wearing a lifejacket. If land is near, head for it.

If you are forced to ride out the storm, keep the bow into the waves, wind and/or current. If the motor fails, an anchor from the bow will allow the boat to ride up and over most oncoming waves as anchoring from the stern can cause water to rise over the transom, flooding or even capsizing the boat.

If you are going to go boating in remote locations have a good reporting plan in place. Always tell someone where you will be, where you will be launching from, how many people are with you and when you intend to return.

In some areas good phone or radio coverage is not always possible, making assistance difficult if any problems occur. And remember not to overload your vessel. While these rivers and dams may look peaceful, always consider the low water temperature and remote location could prove risky should trouble occur.
Alpine Lakes (Eucumbene, Jindabyne, Tumut, Blowering and Burrinjuck)

Alpine lakes present there own unique boating challenges. As with other inland waters many hazards are not marked and as water levels fluctuate more hazards may develop just under the surface.

The most common vessel operated in these areas is the small open runabout which is reasonably inexpensive to buy, easy to tow and use as a fishing platform. The majority of these vessels however, are designed for calm water conditions only.
Alpine Weather

There is no specific boating forecast provided by the Bureau of Meteorology for alpine lakes. Any person boating in those areas needs to review the available general weather conditions and forecasts and determine how they may affect the waterway they propose to operate on. It must be remembered that weather conditions in high altitudes can change dramatically within a matter of minutes and proper trip preparation is essential.

Wind and Waves

The surface of the water in shallow dams and storage areas can become extremely rough in windy conditions. Waves are generally short and steep, and can be as high as those encountered in coastal areas.

The following recommendations apply in these situations:

If the conditions deteriorate, put on your lifejacket and head for shore. Remember it is better to be a long way from home but on the shore than along way from shore in such conditions.

Cold Water

The water temperature of inland waterways varies considerably. The risk of hypothermia always exists and can be exacerbated by a wind chill factor in the area, even in the warmer months of the year.
Note: Waders may be ok for fishing from the shoreline but in a boat they can add to the risk of drowning should your boat capsize, be swamped or you fall overboard.

Crossing Ocean Bars

Shallow sand bars which can form at the point where rivers, creeks, lakes or harbours meet the sea are locations for experienced vessel drivers only. Any channel through such bars can change frequently. Even in apparently calm conditions, vessels can be swamped, damaged or wrecked on bars and lives have been lost. Avoid crossing a bar on a run out tide when dangerous waves may occur.

Knowledge & Experience

Do not attempt to cross any bar without experience and local knowledge. You should:

Preparation & Planning

Prior to crossing any bar it is recommended that the following checks should be made.

Know the times of the tide and obtain an upto-date weather forecast (especially expected wind conditions).

Observe the bar conditions – be prepared to cancel or delay the crossing.

Check the vessel – especially steering and throttle controls, and watertight hatches and drains. The vessel must be seaworthy and suitable for the conditions, and able to take some impact from waves.

Ensure that all loose items can be stowed away in lockers or tied down to prevent movement.

Check that all watertight hatches can be closed and sealed properly and that drain holes are free and bilge pumps work.
On the Water Prior to Crossing

Secure all loose gear and equipment. Brief your passengers / crew about the dangers – put on lifejackets type 1.

Check all watertight hatches are closed and secured but not locked.

Assess the bar conditions – have they changed since your last inspection?

When crossing ocean bars, you should not lose your nerve in the white water. Once committed, keep going. trying to turn around in the middle of a bar entrance can be disastrous. Try to take waves as close to head on as possible.

Going Out

The outgoing vessel must meet the incoming wave energy. Do not hit waves at high speed – an airborne vessel is out of control and can cause damage and injury. Do not allow waves to break onto your vessel. As a guide:

Coming In

Be aware the conditions may have changed. If dangerous, consider alternatives such as:

The vessel should travel at the same speed as the waves. The aim is to travel in on the back of a swell, staying ahead of waves breaking behind the vessel. You should:

Handling a Vessel at Sea

The way a boat handles at sea will depend on:

Bomboras

When boating along the coastline, particularly when close to a shoreline, be aware of bomboras. Bomboras are shallow areas such as those created by rocks or reef that cause waves to break. It is advisable to check maps and charts, talk to locals, and be aware of the existance of bomboras. The danger posed by these formations can be higher in good weather as a bombora may not be identifiable because it may not always have breaking waves. Boaters need to be cautious anywere bomboras may exist.

Head Seas

Generally, the best way to tackle bigger waves is to take them bow on or about 30 degrees off each bow. Too much power will result in the boat leaping over the crests and crashing down into troughs. This slamming action is not good for either the boat or the people on board. Too little power may mean that the waves break onto or over the vessel. The driver must control the speed and direction steered to achieve the most comfortable and safest ride.

Beam Seas

The danger from travelling beam onto waves is that rolling is increased. The amount of rolling can be reduced by varying the angle to the seas. The driver should watch out for waves that are larger than others and consider changing course or speed to ride over or with it.

Following Seas

Travelling with a following sea has the greatest potential for disaster with broaching sideways and swamping/capsize a real possibility. Steering power is reduced by following seas and judicial use of the throttle controls is critical. As in crossing a bar, you should attempt to maintain a position on the back of waves, using throttle to keep ahead of waves breaking behind the boat.

Remember When Conditions Worsen

Handling a Vessel in Rough Weather/Hazards

Like other hazards on the water, rough weather can be avoided by obtaining a weather forecast prior to setting out.
A sudden unpredicted squall, however, can catch even the most careful boater so you should always prepare and plan for the worst and keep a good lookout for tell tale clouds and white cap waves.
If you are close enough, run for the shore, a safe harbour, or the lee of an island, where the wind cannot generate large waves.
Sudden squalls usually only last for a short period and sometimes precede a change in wind direction, usually blowing at much stronger speeds than the wind that will follow. If you doubt your chances of safely running back to harbour you may prefer to ride out the initial onslaught by keeping your bow into the wind and waves. The main criteria is to keep a speed sufficient to allow you to steer the vessel, but no faster.
Without power to maintain steerage, a vessel will drift side on (beam on) to the sea and be vulnerable to capsize. A sea anchor, or a strong bucket tied to the bows will keep you pointing into the waves should your engine fail.
Always wear your lifejacket at times of heightened risk.

• sailing vessels
• vessels approaching head on (by altering course to starboard)
• vessels approaching from the right (starboard) hand side (ie, crossing)
• vessels displaying the special lights and signals shown in this chapter
• large vessels restricted in their manoeuvrability
• any vessel being overtaken and
• vessels engaged in fishing activities and showing appropriate signals.

• 30 metres from any person or anything in the water when you are travelling at 10 knots or more
• 60 metres from a person in the water, if you are towing a water skier or aquaplaner
• 100 metres from a dredge or work barge, if you are travelling faster than 4 knots.

• drive slowly and keep wash to a minimum
• keep a lookout for people in the water, small dinghies, and trailing ropes and
• when travelling at 10 knots or more you must stay at least 30m from any moored vessel.

• bridge span blocked
• channel is blocked
• port closed.

• recreational boats, both power and sail should keep well clear of large vessels and ferries
• do not cross ahead of large vessels or ferries unless well clear.
   

• do not cross close astern of a large vessel or ferry
• always keep to the starboard side of a channel and
• do not cross a channel if you are going to impede a vessel which has to use the channel.